RSS MAD

Cocktail Trends to Watch

The Distilled Spirits Council of the U.S. (DISCUS) recently released their list of the top five cocktail trends to watch. DC mixologists are definitely ahead of the curve...

1. The rise of super premium spirits: Evidenced in part by the umpteen kinds of super premium gin alone out there. Check out New Heights' Gin Joint.

2. Innovative infusions: Everyone out there is doing simple syrups that are anything but...with fresh herbs, fruits, and even flowers. Aisling Fitzpatrick of Alexandria's Vermilion is big on infusions.

3. A fresh and seasonal focus: Todd Thrasher of PX and Restaurant Eve won't use it if it's not in season, and lots of other mixologists follow this golden rule.

4. Added bartending technique: It's not just throwing liquor and ice in a glass, says Sebastian Zutant of Proof, who makes his own Vermouth.

5. The resurgence of old-fashioned ingredients like Chartreuse and Creme de Violette, which Washington Post Spirits Columnist Jason Wilson reviewed awhile back.

Museum of the American Cocktail Dinner at DC's Proof

Last evening's dinner at DC's Proof restaurant was to celebrate National Cocktail Week, as well as to raise funds for the upcoming opening of the Museum of the American Cocktail in New Orleans. The city's most inventive mixologists were on hand to create luscious libations during the cocktail hour, as well as to pair with Chef Haidar Karoum's five-course menu.

I had such a phenomenal time--it was definitely one of the top food and drink events I've ever had the pleasure of attending. I sat at a small table in the bar, so we were front and center to watch the mixologists in action. It was cool to see hundreds of glasses lined up, ingredients being added to shakers (no powdered sour mixes here--everything was made fresh), and concoctions being garnished. Komi's Derek Brown even invited me to the back bar as an extra set of hands to shake the last round of 'tails. And it was a thrill for me to finally meet in person so many of the bar talents I've interviewed or used as resources in recent articles--and to see some old friends.

Here is the rundown of the evening:

Cocktail Hour Drinks:

Lady Randolph's Revenge (John Hogan, Hudson Lounge): John reinvented the Manhattan, making it just a touch kindler and gentler, yet still with a warm, Bourbon-y kick (and great cherry notes). The drink contained Woodford Reserve Bourbon, homemade bing cherry and Madagascar vanilla vermouth, Luxardo Maraschino Liqueur, Fee Brothers Whiskey Bitters, and Maraschino Espuma.

Zenzero Apertio (Chantal Tseng, Tabard Inn): Light, sparkling and refreshing, this drink contained sparkling wine, Caravella Limoncello, ginger syrup and a dash of Absinthe.

PaRappa the Rapper Punch (Adam Bernbach, Bar Pilar): So summery and tropical, I could totally see myself sipping this all day at a Caribbean resort. Adam used Tommy Bahama Gold Rum, syrup made from strawberry, Szechuan pepper and Tonka beans, lime juice, tarragon and strawberry puree, and Peychaud bitters.

Tarragon Gin Fizz (Justin Guthrie, Central Michel Richard): Once I got past the bright, definitely-not-found-in-nature green color (which also evoked thoughts of shooters passed around in test tubes at college bars), I loved this drink--totally reminded me of my herb garden. Justin blended Hendrick's gin infused with tarragon, lemon juice, and Natakhari Tarragon soda.

Puffin du Velay (Rico Wisner, Poste Modern Brasserie): Rico used Vervaine du Velay, a liqueur similar to Chartreuse with some anise flavor, in this drink, as well as Reyka vodka, fresh sour mix with agave syrup, and sparkling wine. It was interesting...but I think the Vervaine is an acquired taste, and I'm not there yet.

Dinner Cocktails and Menu:

1st course:
Todd Thrasher of PX and Restaurant Eve was up first. His drink, The Dr. Who, used Machu Pisco, Celery and Jicama soda, and homemade celery bitters (which I tried on a spoon by themselves--so tasty.) The Pisco gave the drink a definitive kick, but the celery tamed it a bit. It was paired with Chilled Seafood and Hearts of Palm Cocktail--a gazpacho-like creation with fresh mussels and other seafood. A big old dish of this, some crusty bread, and a glass of Sauvignon Blanc would be a fantastic summer dinner.

2nd course:
Komi's Derek Brown made my other favorite cocktail of the evening. Very labor-intensive, the lovely Hibiscus Fizz contained Finlandia Vodka infused with hibiscus/rose hips/orange peel, Yuzu and lemon juices, topped with soda. It was bright pink, but did not taste at all frou frou. The second course was Sake Glazed Salmon with Pickled Honshimenji Mushrooms, Local Asparagus and Tamari-Radish Emulsion. The salmon's sweet glaze partnered incredibly with the drink.

3rd course:
Gina Chersevani of EatBar really pushed for this event to happen. She has garnered quite a legion of cocktail fans, as evidenced by the amount of clapping and cheering when her name was announced. Smoky, savory and funky (in a good way), her Cereza la Fuma contained Milagro Silver Tequila, Lillet Rouge, Cherrywood smoked white pepper meringuem(foam), agave nectar, lime juice, and was topped with fleur de sel. Chef paired it with Braised Shenandoah Lamb with Spring Pea-Tarragon Risotto and Grilled Ramps. The lamb was so tender and flavorful, it tasted like braised beef to me.

4th course:
Proof's own Sebastian Zutant took care of the drinks for the cheese course--and he also took the award for the evening's longest cocktail name. Medicine Man (aka Sebby Potter and the Teeming Cauldron of Booze) had Woodford Reserve Bourbon, Blandy's Madeira, Lillet Rouge, Lustau East India Sherry, Fee Brothers whiskey bitters, and it was topped with a prune soaked in Armagnac and Port. Dark red, aromatic and perfect with cheese and accoutrements, the Medicine Man was actually served from Zutant's own cauldron.

5th course:
Tom Brown from wine bar Cork finished the evening with the Truffled Amaro Flip. We all stood behind the bar, shaking Korbel brandy, Ramazzotti Amaro, eggs, lemon juice, truffle oil and Jerry Thomas Decanter bitters. It looked like a frothy Bailey's, but tasted anything but. The truffle oil added just a hint of complexity, but not the overwhelming, almost stinky scent that truffles sometimes can (thankfully...) It was a nice partner for the dessert course, Strawberry and Pink Peppercorn Shortcake with Creme Fraiche and Honey Lavender Ice Cream.

Whew. That was quite an entry. But so delicious to relive. :-)

Head here for more info on Proof. And here for info about the museum.

World Cocktail Week--Gotta Celebrate!

I'll be headed out to Proof tonight to celebrate World Cocktail Week, sponsored by The Museum of the American Cocktail. Many of the Washington area’s premier mixologists will be working together for the first time to whip up inventive drinks to pair with each of the dinner's courses. Participating mixologists include Adam Bernbach of Bar Pilar, Derek Brown of Komi, Tom Brown of Cork, Gina Chersevani of EatBar, Justin Guthrie of Central, John Hogan of Hudson, Todd Thrasher of Restaurant Eve, Chantal Tseng of Tabard Inn, Rico Wisdnor of Poste, and Sebastian Zutant of Proof.

Executive Chef Haidar Karoum will prepare a five-course tasting menu that will be paired with five additional specialty cocktails.

Tickets are $135 each, but the event is now sold out. I'll definitely be posting about this tomorrow--I've had the pleasure of meeting and/or interviewing most of the mixologists on the list for various articles, and I look forward to witnessing some of their bar magic. Pairing cocktails, rather than wine, with each of the courses will be a refreshing change of pace.

Small Plates and Lots of Wine

On Saturday night, I did a wine tasting in PA for a dinner club that my sister-in-law and brother-in-law belong to. It was a fantastic evening! My SIL paired the wines I selected with some amazing small plates. Here was the rundown:

* NV Zardetto Prosecco: Boiled new red potato halves with créme frâiche topped with salmon and caviar.

*2007 Kim Crawford New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc: Mixed baby greens salad with a light vinaigrette and goat cheese.

* 2006 Trimbach Alsatian Riesling: Gorgonzola Stuffed Shrimp - jumbo shrimp butterflied, marinated, grilled & stuffed with a gorgonzola/cream cheese mixture and wrapped with proscuitto.

* 2006 Mauro Sebaste, S. Rosalia Dolceetto D'Alba: Fresh cheese ravioli with grilled eggplant caponata.

*2006 Chalone Vineyard Monterey Pinot Noir: Mushroom tartlets in phyllo.

* Broquel Malbec: Grilled steak & portobellas with parmesan shavings over radicchio.

* 1994 Dow Vintage Port: Silton cheesecake with rhubarb compote.

Toast to Mom

Sharing a timely press release I received this week...

Join winemaker Erik Olsen as Clos du Bois raises funds and awareness for the eight million mothers and daughters living with heart disease. For every e-card sent from http://www.toasttomom.com/, Clos du Bois will donate $1 to WomenHeart. The goal is to raise $25,000 and touch thousands of hearts this May!

A wonderful online resource for celebrating Mother’s Day on May 11th and National Women’s Health Week, May 11th - 17th, consumers can also download heart healthy Mother’s Day recipes and wine pairing ideas, purchase a heartfelt gift basket for mom and enter to win a fabulous getaway for two to Sonoma wine country.

Heart's Delight Wine Tasting and Auction

If you are a wine lover who feels being generous this weekend for a really worthy cause, then I urge you to head out to DC's Heart's Delight Wine Tasting and Auction.

I'm proud to have served this year on the Auction Committee. Over the past eight years, Heart's Delight has grown to become one of the nation’s premier food and wine events - it provides the ideal combination of great food and wine while raising the much-needed funding to support the mission of the American Heart Association. Since Heart’s Delight began in 1999, we have raised $6 million dollars for the fight against heart disease and stroke.

Saturday’s schedule includes a seated tasting of the 2005 vintage from 20 classed-growth Bordeaux châteaux, with the winemakers or winery owners presenting their wines. This will be followed by a silent auction and walk-around tasting, with chefs from across the country offering samples of their cuisine. Saturday evening ends with a live auction that includes several luxury lots of rare wines and trips to wine regions around the world.

Admission to Saturday’s seated tasting and the evening reception and auction is $500 a person ($250 is tax deductible), and admission to the evening alone is $250 ($125 deductible). But this is an opportunity to taste some top wines from a fantastic vintage while supporting a very worthy cause.

For more information and to order tickets, check out their website.

A German white wine from South Africa at an Indian restaurant...

Last evening, I attended a "Mad About Mangoes" press dinner at Rasika, where all the drinks and dishes contained the fragrant Indian mango. Last year was the first for the luscious fruit to be imported into the U.S. Its short growing season, coupled with the time-consuming importation process, makes it elusive, expensive, and that much more delicious.

Chef Vikram Sunderam crafted many amazing mango-inspired dishes. My favorites were the mango shrimp with ginger, coriander and mint chutney; and the Aam Murgh, a chicken curry of sorts with mango, cashew nuts and cardamom. The mango and saffron kulfi--Indian version of ice cream--was also tropical and creamy.

Several wines were paired with the dishes, and my favorite was a 2007 Cederberg Bukettraube--the first time I have ever tried this grape. This white varietal is all but extinct, with a really small amount of plantings left in the world. Originally a German grape, it was then brought to South Africa (the origin of the wine I had), and its short shelf life means that it's rarely exported long distances. I absolutely loved it. Similar in acidity to a Sauvignon Blanc, it had some honey and peach notes, and then hit me with flavors of passion fruit and papaya--which explains why it paired so well with the mango dishes.

Not sure where I can get this rare wine, but it, like the Indian mango, is definitely worth the search.

Yes Virginia, there is a Vodka

Let It Breathe

I had a lot of fun recently reviewing wine aerators for the May/June issue of Imbibe. My Christmas gift Vinturi fared well, although it does have its drawbacks. My pick for most user-friendly and utilitarian went to the Nuance Wine Finer. You can check out page 24 of the most recent issue, or read the article here.

Gold POP

Gingered Inspiration...

I've found this summer's "house cocktail"

A bit easier to make than Gina Chersevani's Gnome's Water which I mentioned a month or so ago, the Gordon's Cup also has the refreshing notes of lime and cucumber. It's on page 46 of the April issue of Bon Appetit, and it's served at LA's Comme Ca:

Gordon's Cup:
1 serving

2/3 of 1 small lime, cut into 6 wedges
2 1/2 inch thick rounds of peeled cucumber
1/4 cup gin (I used the cucumber- and rose-scented Hendrick's)
1 1/2 tablespoons simple syrup
1 cup cracked ice
Pinch of sea salt

Place lime and cucumber in cocktail shaker; mash with muddler or wooden spoon until lime is juiced and cucumber is pulpy. Add gin and simple syrup, then ice. Cover; shake vigorously 3 times. Pour contents of shaker into rocks glass. Sprinkle with salt.


***Once my lavender is in bloom, I'll make a lavender-infused syrup, like Gina does for her Gnome's Water. And I think this drink would also be great topped with club soda.

Gin with a bite

I have to admit--I was drawn to G-Vine gin at first because of the really cool bottle, which I thought would look great on my bar. I figured from the variegated green on the bottle that the gin would have an overt limey, citrusy flavor. But I was surprised when I tasted it to find that for me, the overlying flavor was a licorice bite (the full list of botanicals is listed on the underside of the back label, visible through the front of the bottle.)

With Fever Tree tonic (I'll be reviewing FT's line of mixers soon, and then I'll close the book--at least for awhile--on tonic, this French gin distilled from grapes made a mean G&T on warm spring evening.

Check here for more info on G-Vine. Bottoms up!

A Washington Pinot Gris

"On the Dot"

"Listen to the Ice"

I had a lovely time last evening at PX, the Alexandria speakeasy that is basically the playground for mixologist Todd Thrasher's amazingly complex concoctions.

Not to give away too many of the destination's secrets, but for those of you unfamiliar with PX, the lounge really does evoke the feeling of a speakeasy. There is no sign--patrons know it's open when the skull and crossbones flag that flies over Eamonn's fish and chips restaurant on the first floor (also owned by Cathal Armstrong) is out, and when the single blue light bulb is lit. Ring the doorbell, and the hostess slides the peephole door. A password isn't needed, but a reservation is suggested--especially on busy weekend evenings. Once inside, it definitely feels like you've stepped back into another time--crystal chandeliers hang over the bars and tables, dark blue velvet sofas fill one room, and the walls are made with gorgeous dark stained wood.

PX is small by design--only holding 30-35 people, so conversation, and finding a place to sit, is easy. It's meant to be a destination for a cocktail or two before or after dinner--reservations are for 2 hour blocks, maximum.

Crafting excellent cocktails take time, and a seat at the bar is a show in itself, and makes the time fly by. A peak at the back bar shows a shelf of high-end liquors, as well as bottles and jars labeled with masking tape. PX has 11 housemade bitters and lots of infused syrups. Heck, even the tonic and ginger ale are homemade. The place is 1/2 bar, 1/4 kitchen and 1/4 chemistry lab.

I started with a "Boris Karloff," with housemade elderflower liqueur (St. Germain isn't available in Virginia...), Plymouth gin and kiffir lime. This drink is a fizz, so it also contained egg white to make it frothy. It was aromatic and refreshing.

We also tried the "China Rose", with house-infused vanilla Cruzan rum, hibiscus bitters and dried hibiscus flowers. Bright red and served in a hurricane-style glass, it was deceptively less sweet than I thought it would be. And really, really good.

"The Big O" mixed Hendricks gin, Cointreau, orange bitters, orange syrup and lime juice--a perfectly balanced warm weather sipper.

PX's menu changes frequently, and mix master Thrasher is a staunch supporter of only using ingredients in season. For more information about PX, go to Eamonn's website, and click on the PX logo in the bottom right-hand corner.

Oh, and "listen to the ice" is PX's mantra--order, sit back, relax, let the magical mixing begin, and listen to the ice.

Wine dinner with Schramsberg

If you love Schramsberg sparkling wines as much as me, then you'll be as stoked as I was to hear about the upcoming dinner at Cafe Atlantico that pairs the restaurant's dishes with Schramsberg's sparklers:

On the evening of Tuesday, May 20th, Café Atlantico and sommelier Jill Zimorski will welcome Schramsberg Vineyards and Cellars’ Hugh Davies for an exclusive wine dinner showcasing their celebrated sparkling wines. Guests of this exclusive wine dinner will be treated to a selection of bubbly from the Calistoga-based vineyard paired with an innovative four-course menu by Chef Katsuya Fukushima. Space is limited and reservations are required. The dinner is priced at $125 per person, excluding including tax and gratuity. (A complete menu is posted below.) To reserve guests should call Café Atlantico at (202) 393-0812.

Passed Greeting
Oyster w/ Caviar, Marcona Almond
Schramsberg Blanc de Blancs

1st Course
Unagi, Pineapple, Pinenuts, Cucumber, Yuzu
J. Schram Brut Reserve

2nd Course
Octopus, Strawberries, Greek Yogurt
Schramsberg Brut Rose

3rd course
Duck, Foie, Gingerbread, Kumquat, Sesame
Schramsberg Reserve

Dessert
Apples and Champagne
Schramsberg Cremant

Better with Bitters

Lately, I've really been getting into bitters--not just Angostura and Peychaud's, but the myriad of flavored ones out there, from peach, to orange, lemon and grapefruit. It's amazing what just a drop or two can do to add complexity to a cocktail, making it taste more like something you got at your favorite bar or restaurant, and less like something you whipped up at home.

Continuing quest for the perfect G&T...

A new liquid dessert

A Spritzy Gewurz

At a client's tasting this past week on wines from Sonoma, I selected an Adler Fels Sonoma Gewurztraminer for one of the bottles. I really dig Gewurz, and I'm always on the lookout for good domestic producers.

I was really surprised to uncork it and see lots of spritzy bubbles--almost foam--coming to the top of the bottle. The foam continued when I poured it, so to me it seemed in appearance like a Vinho Verde.

The wine was off-dry, with TONS of lychees. Not too much spice, but also some attractive peach and tropical fruit flavors.

If this is your thing--and I think it can be nice for the warmer weather, Adler Fels Sonoma Gewurztraminer is available for around 12 bucks.

Creme de Violette

Santorini white

DC's Zaytinya is currently celebrating Greek Easter by offering special menus and dishes traditional to the holiday. Last evening, I attended a media kickoff dinner, where I sampled a lot of the dishes that will be featured during the Easter feast celebration. Rack of lamb and spring lamb were both flavorful, the latter served as tender as sliced filet mignon. A simple fresh Greek salad with chunks of feta was topped with a great, light vinaigrette, and sustainable halibut was moist and flavorful. Fingerling potatoes were crisp, with just the right amount of salt and fresh parsley. And dessert--orange cake topped with ice cream, blood orange and pistachio, ended the meal with a right touch of sweetness.

We had several wines to pair with the courses. The highlight for me was a Argyros Estate 05 from the Greek island of Santorini. Made from a blend of Asyrtiko, Aidáni Aspro and Athíri, the wine was light gold, and had a spritz similar to that of a Vinho Verde. Zesty lime notes were balanced by a bit of an attractive bitterness on the finish, and the crispness paired well with the halibut and Greek salad.

For more info on Zaytinya's Greek Easter festival, go to their website.

Two local grapes shine

Back in February, I attended the Virginia Wine Showcase in Chantilly, the first state wine festival indoors. While I was there, I tasted a bunch of VA Viogniers and Nortons--two of the grapes that shine in VA wine, in my opinion. I reported my findings for The Tasting Panel, and you can read the article here.