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added: Fri, 08th September 2006 | 3137 views | 1x in favourites
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Future Hardware - Evaluate hardware before purchase.
On Fri, 02 May 2008 19:09:40 -0400, Barry Watzman in part:[color=blue] > I beg to differ with you. If you did what you claim, the drive was not > truly protected by the mechanism that we are talking about. That > mechanism is OS independent, works before any OS boots on the machine, > and the drive is totally invisible and inaccessible until the correct > password is entered.[/color] Someone else said:[color=blue][color=green] > > > > I have effectively mounted a "password protected" HD under Knoppix Live, > > via a USB cable interface and copied all contents of the HD to another > > physical drive. It is all a bunch of marketing huey.[/color][/color] In fact, I thought that the problem was just the opposite: If the drive is password protected than you can't access it through USB at all since there is no way to enter the password. (I suppose someone could make disk box with a USB interface that allowed you to enter the password using an "out of band" method to enter the password. There certainly are a bunch of external boxes with hardware keys that are needed to encrypt/decrypt the data on the disk.)
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I have the CT-90, which only goes to 600 Mhz. Uses a different pre-scaler (11C90.) The schematic probably wouldn't do you much good. Couldn't find anything about the series on the Ramsey site. You could always contact them to see if they have something in the archives. http://www.ramseyelectronics.com/ Dick On 15 May 2008 18:02:58 -0400, Sam Goldwasser wrote: [color=blue] >Anyone ever seen this? It's a cute little frequency counter that >is supposed to go to 1.3 GHz, but only the 10 MHz and 60 MHz ranges >work. The 1.3 GHz range is either non-responsive or erratic. > >There's a house numbered chip, which may be the prescaler: 2-8758-229 >with 274-227 below that. > >Any info appreciated. > >Thanks! > >--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/ > Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/ >+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm > | Mirror Sites: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html > >Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is >ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or electronics is included in the >subject line. Or, you can contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.[/color] ** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **
Hello... I have lab with ASA 5505 as a router, port 4 and port 6 are configure at the same internal VLAN subnet, port 6 connect to Switch1 (2960), port 4 connects to Switch2 (3960), any hosts connects to Switch1 and Switch2 can connect to each other and to the internet without problem. Now, when I reconnect Switch2 to port 23 of Switch1, hosts in Switch2 lost the connection to the rest of the world except those hosts in the same switch (switch2), that they can communicate each other. What needs to be changed when cascade a switch to another in this configurations? Thanks, Yvette.
In article <040520081213168713%anybody@anywhere-anytime.com>, Anybody wrote: [color=blue] > In article , Marc > Heusser wrote: >[color=green] > > As we are still waiting for the iPhone to arrive in Switzerland: > > > > What is the best (easiest, safest, ) current method to remove the > > SIMlock on a US iPhone when in Switzerland, ie outside of the US?[/color] > > The best option is to use a hardware hack like SuperSIM where you put > your slightly modified SIM chip into a tray that tricks the iPhone into > believing it's a normal connection. > > These solutions tend to be much more expensive, but they usually are > not affected when you update the iPhone's software (unlike software > unlock solutions which can make your iPhone a useless paperweight until > the hacker releases a newer version to cope with the updated Apple > software). > > I have a vague recollection of reading a rumour about Switzerland > getting the iPhone "soon", but don't remember where or when I read it.[/color] It's now been confirmed by Swisscom. The iPhone wil be available in Switzerland "later this year". :-)
Anybody had any luck swapping out a PCB on a hard drive? -- David Williams Georgia Institute of Technology, Atlanta Georgia, 30332 Email: dw149@prism.gatech.edu
vinny wrote:[color=blue] > I have an Antec case that came with a 350 watts power supply I had a 6800 > xt with 512 of ram (with the extra pipelines and shaders turned on) on a > previous agp motherboard which ran fine. I read that the 9600gt should use > the same amount of power, but most of the requirements I saw said it > needed a 400 watts minimum. > > Please note that I had to buy a power adapter because my power supply had a > 20 pin motherboard power connector while my mobo has a 24 pin socket. > My system is > > asus M2A-VM micro atx motherbard > amd 64 x2 4800 cpu (brisbane 65 watts) > 1 ide hardrive > 1 sata hardrive > 1 ide dvd burner > 2-1 gig sticks of ram > win xp pro with sp2 > > will I be able to run a basic 9600 gt card? > > thanks to all who reply... > > Vinny > >[/color] So I take it you're using the integrated X1250 right now correct? For any current PCI-E motherboard you should have a fully ATX 12V compliant 24-pin power supply that's PCI-E compatible. This also will have all the necessary 6-pin power leads for graphics cards and SATA connectors so you don't need all those Molex-to-xxx plugs. In reviews the 9600GT uses slightly less power than an 8800GT and comes in around 72-80watts under load. This is enough stress that you should have a nice big 12v rail that can supply roughly 24 amps total. Since pretty much everything today draws off the 12v, it has become far more important to a modern PSU. You'll thank yourself in the long run since clean power is very important to system stability (just ask your capacitors sometime :) ). Also a good size 500-600w efficient PSU will last you a long time. Even an SLI 8800GTX system only needs a 620W PSU. You don't have to spend too much, but don't buy the generic 30-50 USD nonames, they're always over-rated (current and amperage wise) and fail easily. Here's some good examples: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817153052 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817371007 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817189005 I'm using an XClio 500W with an 8800GT in my Opteron system, and while I'm not sure it's the best PSU or even the most efficient, it does keep steady voltage and keeps the GT from throttling down in-game.
On May 16, 12:00*am, "BillW50" wrote:[color=blue] > Here is Paragon Hard Disk Manager 8 for free: > > http://www.megaleecher.net/Free_Partition_Manager > > -- >ok i have disk c which is primary which is full and i have empty disk o has15gb....how do i merge that to disk c[/color] thanks
In news:29fd2970-1f8c-4496-b1af-7298dc462ed8@e53g2000hsa.googlegroups.com, kingtubby typed on Thu, 15 May 2008 13:29:29 -0700 (PDT):[color=blue] > I have a old dell inspiron 1000 and need a new battery ,but when i > seen the prices i was thinking there must be a better (cheaper) way > i seen some were were you can open the battery pack and replace the > battery's inside i hear its like 6 or 8 rechargeable cells wired > together has any one attempt this or know of any were i can find > current information?[/color] This should give you a start. http://www.electronics-lab.com/articles/Li_Ion_reconstruct/index.html http://www.primecell.com/qli-Ion.htm -- Bill
measekite wrote:[color=blue] > > > Taliesyn wrote: >[color=green] >> measekite wrote: >>[color=darkred] >>> >>> >>> Taliesyn wrote: >>> >>>> etikesaem@gmail.com wrote: >>>> >>>>> >>>>> Taliesyn wrote: >>>>> >>>>>> Add to the fact that on eBay they had positive feedback to the >>>>>> tune of >>>>>> 10,000 or something, which is a far better yardstick to go by than a >>>>>> couple of anonymous, vicious, hate postings. >>>>>> >>>>>> -Taliesyn >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> Have you ever bought an aftermarket rechargable battery off ebay for >>>>> 90% off OEM? Will if you did, you will notice that these aftermarket >>>>> batteries barely last a year. However, they are great during the >>>>> first few months. >>>> >>>> >>>> Yeah, so what. I'll only be using a camera that uses this specific >>>> battery for only 2 to 3 years. This is my 3rd year. Then my plans >>>> are to >>>> buy another brand camera which uses a different battery type. If eBay >>>> cheapies last but a year then my battery costs are under $20 for that >>>> period.[/color] >> >>[color=darkred] >>> This is a penny pinching allowance scripting high school kid who only >>> cares about spending less.[/color] >> >> >> Penny pinching? The difference between a $5 battery and a $70 one is >> not measured in pennies but in DOZENS of dollars - 5 dozen Dollars, to >> be exact (6,500 pennies). >>[color=darkred] >>>> If I bought an OEM battery my cost might be $70 (in Canada) for >>>> a battery that might last longer than the camera. Money wasted! If >>>> you >>>> plan to keep your camera until either it or you becomes obsolete, then >>>> that is your own business. I've bought 2 cheapie batteries so far and >>>> am 100 percent satisfied with the battery life (for the price)[/color] >> >>[color=darkred] >>> that means the the battery is really not up to snuff but he spent >>> less so he tries to justify it[/color] >> >> >> I saved $60 dollars - that's justification enough. For that amount I can >> buy a new $5 battery every year for the next 12 years regardless of the >> camera type I buy. >>[color=darkred] >>>> and the >>>> efficient dealer that shipped my batteries faster than I could say >>>> "Measekite is trolling again". ;-) >>>> >>>> But thank you Measekite for giving me the opportunity to say some nice >>>> things about eBay batteries. Thank God for dealers that help me save >>>> money by not forcing me to buy "Lexus" versions of batteries that I >>>> really don't need.[/color] >> >>[color=darkred] >>> You are always happy with a Yugo[/color] >> >> >> Changing the subject because you're losing is not an acceptable >> argument. >>[color=darkred] >>>> If they last a year for $5.... fantastic!!!![/color] >> >>[color=darkred] >>> Unless they catch fire or blow up[/color] >> >> >> The only Chinese product that has ever blown up for me was a >> firecracker. But it was my own fault, I put a match to it. ;-) >> >> OEM batteries have been catching fire too according to news stories. >> So why buy a $70 battery that may catch fire when I can get a $5 battery >> to do the very same thing![/color] > > Dollars to high schoolers pennies to the rest.[/color] Grow up you childish idiot moron! It may or may not do the[color=blue] > same thing and I do not mean powering a device.[/color] What else is battery good for you idiot! I am speaking about[color=blue] > safety and the fact is the chances of greater risk lies with a noname > that was probably made in china.[/color] Your brain was proly made in china...if you even have one...which is now in great doubt...LOL! Frank[color=blue] >[color=green] >> >> >> -Taliesyn[/color][/color]
In news:1ff1f472-31a2-476e-9ef2-371971fda9f2@y38g2000hsy.googlegroups.com, vi@codewaresolutions.com typed on Thu, 15 May 2008 12:47:37 -0700 (PDT):[color=blue] > I have a sony vaio vgn-s460p that started to make a weird noise. I'm > not sure if that noise comes from the cpu fan or hard drive. Does > anyone have any suggestion??[/color] Go to Power Options Properties and have the hard drive time out and turn off. Or pull the hard drive out. -- Bill
I've had this trouble before, and the various suggestions as to the reason make sense but don't cure the problem. I have two G4 laptops and a Windows PC which, usually, all connect to the net wirelessly with no trouble at all. This afternoon, the two Macs started playing up, self-assigning DCHP addresses and not connecting. When that happened before with a previous Wallstreet laptop, I was told that the problem had to be with the wireless modem router for some reason not sending out correct and usable addresses so the Wallstreet was assining itself its own. But now the PC desktop connects wirelessly and flawlessly, one of the G4s is again online but the other G4 - sitting right next to the first etc - is STILL self-assigning a bull**** DCHP address and this not connecting to the net. As a technical virgin (I don't even know what DCHP stands for) this is utterly baffling. No amount of 'renewing DCHP lease' will get a workable one. I know that this is not crucial as I have net access whether the recalcitrant G4 plays up or not, but that is not the point. I do like to know what is going on so that the next time something like this happens, I have a fair idea as to how to solve the problem. So suggestions/solutions/anything PLEASE before I go mad. Would it help if I got the individual MAC addresses for both laptops and entered then manually in the modem/router? Would it help if I reset the router (a Netgear DG834PN). And please don't assume that just because I can throw around the various jargon names, I know what I am talking about - please keep it simple. PP
I get "Pocket outlook error" "Unable to save changes to appointment (0x8007000E)" when I want to add a new appointment on my pda ipaq 2210. However, I can add appointments on my pc and sync them with my pda. Any ideas?
just received my new macbook, i have a pc and an ipod with my music library loaded on both and sync'd together. is it possible to copy my music library intact to my new macbook?
On Mon, 12 May 2008 14:15:29 +0100, "Seeker" wrote: [color=blue] > >"Eeyore" wrote in message >news:482799F9.7457AF95@hotmail.com...[color=green] >> >> >> Beryl wrote: >>[color=darkred] >>> Seeker wrote: >>> >>> > Sata drives come in 2 speeds >>> > SATA 1.5Gbps data transfer rate. >>> > SATA 3Gbps data transfer rate >>> > I was looking for a 500 to 750 GB drive running at 3 GBs >>> > I was planning on Partioning it in Win XP and formatting it in WinME >>> > format. >>> >>> Your partitions were probably too big for the ME utility to format. >>> >>> Maybe Samsung's disk manager will do exactly what you want. >>> http://www.samsung.com/global/business/hdd/support/utilities/Support_DiskManager.html >>> >>> Looks like you'll have to select Windows ME/98/95 OSR2 to get WinME >>> (FAT32) format if that's what you want, and then it might complain that >>> ME/98/95 don't support large hard drives.[/color] >> >> Maybe he needs NTFS partitions ? >> >> In any event 'seeker' seems unwilling to provide the full info, so it's >> difficult to help >> him. >> >> Graham >> >>[/color] > >Sorry I forget to mention. >This will be my second hard drive. >As my existing WinXP system disk is FAT32 I have to format this FAT32 too. >Also I need FAT32 for access over the network. >[/color] And I forgot to mention that Ranish Partition Manager will format any size drive to FAT32.
On Wed, 14 May 2008 17:04:25 +0100, abit.user wrote: [color=blue] >My general advice would be to always try to use NTFS since it's >a far better file system than FAT32 ... more robust, faster, >with additional features and can recognise larger partitions.[/color] Lacks a bit of accuracy. ;-) FAT32 is marginally faster than NTFS. Not enough to write home about, but it is faster. I'm running a single partition 500GB FAT32 drive. I *think* FAT32 tops out at 2TB but I'm not 100% on that. Windoze XP will only format a 32 GB FAT32 partitions, but that's a MS limitation. When 2TB becomes a partition size limitation for the average home user, then we can revisit this. ;-) Don't know about the "robust" thingy. NTFS has more features, but if you mean by "robust" that it's more stable, then I'm not convinced. Complexity usually brings fragility. If you mean by "robust" that it has more features, then I'll give you that, but the features it provides (compression, security, encryption, etc.) aren't really important to the average Joe.
"CP" wrote in message news:sv%Wj.4308$Kk3.55@bignews9.bellsouth.net...[color=blue] > I know this is a bit of dated mobo (but it has been a real workhorse for[/color] me[color=blue] > and I am not ready to get rid of it yet) but I understand that there is a > newer driver release for the on-board audio. I have it coming from[/color] RealTek[color=blue] > or maybe NVIDIA and it is v5.10.00.6280 dated 1/23/08 (nforce Audio Codex > Interface). Anyway I have look for it on the internet (I have checked > Asus, RealTek and NVIDIA) and so far have been unable to find it...anybody > got any ideas? Thanks CP > >[/color] btw.... nvidia v5.10.xx.xxxx drivers are from http://www.nvidia.com/object/nforce_udp_winxp_5.10.html sep 04 :/
Hello, Friends want to see New* sony products and history please see this http://www.sony-us.blogspot.com
Hello, Friends want to see New* sony products and history please see this http://www.sony-us.blogspot.com
On Thu, 15 May 2008 03:38:49 -0400, "Hank Arnold (MVP)" wrote: [color=blue] >Not my experience at all. IE& works very well with XP as well as Vista. >I've actually switched back to IE from FF because the latter became so >slow.... > >-- > >Regards, >Hank Arnold >Microsoft MVP >Windows Server - Directory Services[/color] Hank -- as a MS MVP just wondering what your thoughts are regarding the user interface changes in IE 7.
Ray Carlsen wrote:[color=blue] > Does anyone know how to get into the service menu of a Hitachi CP-X430W? > It has > a faint double image, apparently in the red channel, and the optical > alignment > is correct. The cyan leading ghost image shows up on all screens > including OSD > menus. I've seen similar but correctable ghosting problems in other > projectors. > Older Sanyo models like the PLC-9000 and other makes such as Boxlight > 9600, Eiki > LC-X1 and Proxima 9310 made by Sanyo were "repairable" by getting into the > service menu and changing one data value. I'd hate to toss this Hitachi > for such > a fault if it's repairable in that manner. It's out of warranty and Hitachi > doesn't want to talk to me. > > Ray Carlsen > A/V Engineering > University of Washington, Seattle[/color] I've seen something like you describe in NEC LCD projectors. AIRC, the problem was warpage of the affected LCD panel; repairable (replace the panel), but not economically. jak
On May 15, 4:17 pm, Aaron Leonard wrote:[color=blue] > ~ I have a Windows XP laptop with SP2 on it. It has a pretty standard > ~ modem built into it. I'd like to write a batch program that picks up > ~ the line, dials a series of numbers, #'s. and *'s, waits a while, and > ~ then hangs up. Can someone help or point me in the right direction? > ~ Thanks. > > If I had a budget of $64 for such a project, I'd go for Kermit-95. > > Aaron[/color] My budget was $0. See here for what I did: http://groups.google.com/group/comp.home.automation/browse_thread/thread/1d2924673449fd95/c686f94e507bfa69?hl=en#c686f94e507bfa69 or http://tinyurl.com/6hncnn
Anyone ever use this drive or any others in their line; Trekstor 88350 DataStation maxi m.u 500GB Portable External Hard Drive Thanks.
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